By Jean-Louis Flandrin
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Extra info for Arranging the meal : a history of table service in France
5 percent); and in Le Cuisinier françois they number 3 out of 10 (30 percent). Is this because the variety of true culinary preparation required for entrées, hors d’oeuvres, and entremets increased between 1651 and 1774? Or does it illustrate a trend, already established for other types of meats, toward stricter choices for roast meats? 21 The four cookbooks cited are in closest agreement concerning feathered game and domestic poultry, which they all consider to be the ideal choices for roasts.
The proportion of ham among large meat cuts for entremets diminished steadily, and the most recent of these cookbooks includes suckling pig, but not for the same purpose as ham: all of the suckling pig dishes were served cold, which is probably why they were considered entremets, like all other cold meats. 15 Since pasties could be served as either entrées or entremets, we can assume that organs were considered entrée or entremets meats. The two categories combined represent 86 percent to 100 percent of organ-meat preparations.
Alongside the roast or following as a separate course came meatless entremets, still nearly as diverse as their meat-day counterparts. The meal ended with desserts that were not strikingly different from those of meat days. Having reviewed the basic structure of meatless meal sequences, we can now more closely examine these successive functions. We will analyze what sorts of foods and modes of preparation were involved, especially when it comes to the three functions whose dishes are problematic, namely, entrées (and hors d’oeuvres), entremets, and roasts.