Arranging the meal : a history of table service in France by Jean-Louis Flandrin

By Jean-Louis Flandrin

The series during which foodstuff has been served at foodstuff has replaced significantly over the centuries and has additionally assorted from one kingdom to a different, a truth famous in almost each culinary historical past. so much foodstuff writers have taken care of the extra major changes as stand-alone occasions. the main recognized instance of the sort of swap happened within the 19th century, while service à los angeles française—in which the beautiful presentation made a good express yet diners needed to wait to be served—gave strategy to service à los angeles russe, in which platters have been handed between diners who served themselves. yet in Arranging the Meal, the past due culinary historian Jean-Louis Flandrin argues that the sort of swap within the order of foodstuff provider is way from a unique occasion. as an alternative he regards it as a ancient phenomenon, person who occurred according to socioeconomic and cultural factors—another mutation in an ever-changing series of customs. As France's so much illustrious culinary historian, Flandrin has turn into a cult determine in France, and this posthumous e-book is not just his ultimate note but additionally an important contribution to culinary scholarship. A foreword by way of Beatrice Fink locations Flandrin's paintings in context and gives a private remembrance of this French culinary hero.

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5 percent); and in Le Cuisinier françois they number 3 out of 10 (30 percent). Is this because the variety of true culinary preparation required for entrées, hors d’oeuvres, and entremets increased between 1651 and 1774? Or does it illustrate a trend, already established for other types of meats, toward stricter choices for roast meats? 21 The four cookbooks cited are in closest agreement concerning feathered game and domestic poultry, which they all consider to be the ideal choices for roasts.

The proportion of ham among large meat cuts for entremets diminished steadily, and the most recent of these cookbooks includes suckling pig, but not for the same purpose as ham: all of the suckling pig dishes were served cold, which is probably why they were considered entremets, like all other cold meats. 15 Since pasties could be served as either entrées or entremets, we can assume that organs were considered entrée or entremets meats. The two categories combined represent 86 percent to 100 percent of organ-meat preparations.

Alongside the roast or following as a separate course came meatless entremets, still nearly as diverse as their meat-day counterparts. The meal ended with desserts that were not strikingly different from those of meat days. Having reviewed the basic structure of meatless meal sequences, we can now more closely examine these successive functions. We will analyze what sorts of foods and modes of preparation were involved, especially when it comes to the three functions whose dishes are problematic, namely, entrées (and hors d’oeuvres), entremets, and roasts.

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